While almost everyone may be familiar with the expression ‘Black is beautiful,’ few people know who made it popular. We owe not only the slogan but an entire aesthetic specific to the Black community to an African-American photographer. Native to Brooklyn, Kwame Brathwaite (1938-2023) founded a movement in the 1960s whose ambition was to portray an original culture breaking free from the dominant culture. With the creation of AJASS – African Jazz-Art Society & Studios, a collective he founded with his brother Elombe Brath – Brathwaite created a space for artistic, musical, and photographic production that redefined the aesthetic standards of Black beauty. The Grandassa Models, activist icons of this counter-culture, took part in happenings that combined fashion, performance, and political protest. Adorned with African hairstyles, symbolic jewelry, and handmade clothing, they embodied a new pride: reclaiming one’s body and image.
Brathwaite used the medium of photography to pioneer a freer way of representing the Black body. Hair was no longer straightened and skin colour was celebrated. These actions were part of a broader community movement, exemplified by Marcus Garvey Day, celebrated every August 17th in Harlem since 1965, honoring Pan-African thought and Black autonomy. Brathwaite played an active role in these celebrations, photographing beauty contests such as the Miss Natural Standard of Beauty – visual and political manifestos that affirmed Black beauty. His photography, deeply rooted in the richness of African American music – jazz, soul, funk, gospel, blues, and calypso – captured a vibrant and dynamic cultural scene. Early on, he worked with several record labels. His photographs graced vinyl covers, capturing the power and dignity of artists like Abbey Lincoln and Max Roach, and he became the photographer of choice for The Stylistics and Stevie Wonder. This exhibition is the first retrospective of the photographer to be held in Europe.
The exhibition is curated by François Cheval and Yasmine Chemali, and is on view from July 5 through October 5, 2025.
